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There can be little doubt that Afghanistan is a developing country.  Forty years ago it was considered an extremely forward thinking Muslim nation and quite liberal with it.  Not that you would believe that if you saw it today.  Prolonged conflict will do that to a country.

Are things changing?  Well things are always changing, so that is a given, the question is though, is it changing for the better?  The only people that can answer that are the Afghans themselves, so I won’t start.  However they are certainly taking charge in their own security.  If you measure ‘better’ by improving civil rights and education, then yes it is improving but it is still a dangerous place to grow up.

Having had the opportunity to observe a pass off parade in Helmand where 1400 newly trained soldiers formed up, I was not surprised to recognise many aspects.  Being a serving soldier I still remember what I felt like on the day I passed off the square.  You have been thrust together with strangers into an environment that tests you, trains you and as best it can prepares you for what comes next.  Yes there is a lot to learn, yes it is physically hard at times, yes at times you wonder how much of it is really necessary, but on this day, it all pails to insignificance as the pride of your achievement takes control.

Being a soldier in the Afghanistan Army, is nothing like being a British soldier, the equipment is different, the circumstances are different, the opportunities are different, but effectively the job is the same.  They are charged with the responsibility to protect and defend a nation.  Their nation.

In the case of Afghanistan, this is no easy task, but it not been easy for forty years, and it won’t get any easier over night.  A fledgling Army has to get up to strength, meet the challenges ahead and gain popular support, which it is doing.  They are gradually beginning to take over areas from ISAF (International Security Assistance Force).  They may not be able to operate the same way as their ISAF counterparts, but as they can communicate with the local population in a way ISAF cannot, you could argue that they will have greater effect.  The local population will, after all, be the ones to decide where the nation is going.

Afghanistan is a large multicultural nation which has had a past with the Soviets, so it is unsurprising that elements of the Soviet drill are practiced.  The Soviet drill that was witnessed all over the world beamed from Red Square during the height of the ‘Cold War’, was nothing if not impressive and imposing.  Stamping feet, swinging arms, heads help high, this is definitely not a simple march and at times timing was lost, but in the scheme of things, an ability to march in step all the time is possibly not of primary importance.

As a soldier over here, we try to find humour in that around us and I had a chuckle to myself with the marching.  When it was good, it was impressive (as is the intent), but at times as I photographed it I found myself thinking that it looked like a rehearsal for a Michael Jackson music video.  The the influence of the self appointed ‘King of Pop’, has reached far indeed.

An Afghan parade holds very little similarities with a British one, this is not intended as a criticism as the Afghans are not British, nor I am sure, do they wish to be.  They follow their own cultural paths and do their best too.  There were times during the parade where the soldiers sang, and not just to their national anthem.  When they sing, they sing with passion, even if the National anthem is played over the PA system from a mobile phone.

My overall impression from witnessing this spectacle was they are a proud people that really love their country and they believe in themselves.  When they have all that what can stop them?

It will be a long journey but a journey that Afghanistan has to take for its own future and now there are an additional 1400 soldiers to help.

The Combat Camera Teams  latest task has been to visit patrol base Wahid, in the green zone of Helmand province to record the contribution to the campaign by the Estonian force.

Smoking is common pass time amongst all soldiers

Two Estonian soldiers ease the burden off their weary feet

I have to admit my naivety about Estonia, other than their geographical location and the fact that they were part of the Soviet Union, I knew little else.

The final cigarette before leaving the safety of their compound

Where is Estonia?  Well it is situated to the east of the Baltic Sea nestled between Finland to the North, Latvia to the south and a small country called Russia to the East.  One of three small independent nations huddled together that used to be part of the old Soviet Union Estonia,Latvia and Lithuania, were important players in the breaking up of the Soviet Union.  Consisting of about only 1.3 million people, it is one of the least populated countries in Europe.

Under threat, a keen lookout

The country contributes about 160 soldiers for a rolling six month deployment on a par with the British troops however considering their population; they are actually one of the largest contributors to the operation (per capita).  They work as part of the multi-national task force within the British are of operations.

Culturally closer to Scandinavia than Russia, they are a friendly bunch and have a mental toughness that is obvious.  Most of its soldiers are physical giants.

Mental preparation before leaving the safety of base

Being a smaller nation they do at times seem to be a little less equipped than the other nations, their vehicles look like cold war throwbacks, but here is the thing, it all works and works well.  They are an example of the emphasis on manpower over technology.  That said they are still sufficiently equipped for this theatre. They have suffered losses and like all the nations involved are constantly adapting their tactics to suit the enemy threat.

Photograph donated by photojournalist Martin Middlebrook of Op massive in progress

Life in any Patrol Base can at times be slow and efforts need to be made to help pass the time.  This can be using the gym (in military terms, known as Op Massive), watch DVD’s, read or pretty much find anything you can to pass the time.  The Estonian platoon in Patrol Base ‘Brekna’ had another, I had not seen before.  For nearly three hours, these battle hardened soldiers dragged out their laptops, sat around the communal dining table, wirelessly linked up and in teams and preceded to kill each other over and over and over again……….tirelessly.

The band of brothers, games style

Illumination from the screen

Focus and concentration

The apple portrait

The focus and concentration was astounding but good natured.  These guys just didn’t move more than their fingertips for ages.  It made for some interesting images.

Stunning natural light in the pitch of night

As the light departed and faded to black (a little video pun), the opportunity was too good to miss in an attempt for another long exposure star trail shot, this time getting the North star too for a bit of visual interest.  It was a shame that the moon was so prominent so although it gave some awesome light for the compound, it did mean there was a lot of light pollution in the sky.

The home from home in a patrol base

Refusal to accept its time to get up

So what about the Sauna?

As we all sat around in the evening waiting for their two chefs to rustle up a fine meal, we began to talk about the welfare facilities these guys had and the subject of saunas were raised.  It turns out that they have a mobile sauna on the Patrol base ‘Wahid’………….. No really an actual sauna.

Suspiciously we enquired more to discover that in Estonian military law, every soldier must sauna at least once a week, so that although this was not possible on ‘Brekna’, an ops sauna on ‘Wahid’ was a sight to behold.

“And so it came to pass that on the last night, hosted by the Estonians, the Combat Camera Team were all sat (naked) in a fully functioning Sauna on the front line of the Helmand campaign”.  A surreal experience you can be sure, but all I can say to end this entry is to say, be thankful there are no photos!

Estonian top gunner taking a moment inside the Armoured Personnel Carrier

A final wave on the journey back to Bastion

Until next time.